Tokyo Guide

U-MAT participants should seize opportunity to explore the biggest city in the world before, or after the symposium. Without any doubt the best way to experience Tokyo is to get lost. Do not waste time attempting to locate yourself on a map and do not fear getting out of the way. If you visit Tokyo and never get lost, you probably missed out on some of the most interesting parts of the city. Nothing is easier than getting lost in Tokyo as it is an endless urban labyrinth. Tokyo is the perfect place for an urban adventure because its millions of narrow streets are fascinating and the city is extremely safe. You can pretty much go anywhere anytime without running any risk. The only words you will have to remember to find your way back are "Eki-wa doko desuka" (where is the station?).

Also keep in mind that Tokyo is a completely different city during the day and at night. It is in the shadows that the real action takes place. However these shadows are elusive. The restaurant you might want to eat at might be hidden in a dark basement or up on the 7th floor of a corporate looking building. Make local friend and go out with them. Also keep in mind that if you ever had a crazy fantasy, fetish, or passion you are probably not alone in Tokyo and there is surely a place waiting for you.

Please use the following information with caution as it is incomplete and biased.

Tokyo Architectural Guide

Tokyo Architectural Guide by Matias Echanove (PDF 14MB)

Shibuya

All visitors to Tokyo have to go to Shibuya during their stay, whether it is for an hour or a whole night. The ugliness of Shibuya is also its beauty. It is an urban monster eating up and digesting millions of people everyday. You can find everything in Shibuya: clothing, music, electronics & specialty shops, cafes, restaurants, hotels, banks, traveling agencies, pachinkos, massage parlors, flea market, parks, etc. But it is really at night that Shibuya awakens, with its hundreds of small bars, big clubs, otaku cyber + manga cafes, after-hour joints, love hotels, and its bustling street life.

Landmark & meeting point

Hachiko

Statue of a dog in front of which all foreign visitors meet. The best is to meet in front of the police station (koban) right next to it or at the Starbuck Cafe on the other side of the road. Both are convenient meeting points because they are just in front of the Hachiko exit of Shibuya station.

Starbuck Cafe

On the other side of the road. Less crowded meeting point. Starbucks' coffee is far from being the best coffee you can get in Tokyo, it offers a good view of Shibuya crossing.

Bars

Tight Bar

The smallest hip hop bar in the world. 3 people are enough to make it feel crowded. Drunkers Street, below the railway, 1 minute from Shibuya station, Hachiko exit.

Organ Bar

One of the best DJ bar & club in the city. Eclectic selection. Laid-back atmosphere.
http://www.organ-b.net

Red Bar

Favorite after-hour hang out for shady foreigners and night workers in Shibuya. After 3 am. Near Shibuya bus station, over the crossing, behind Shibuya Post Office (the main one).

Clubs

Harlem

Classic Shibuya hip hop club.
http://www.harlem.co.jp

Club Asia

Most foreigners end up there at some point. Not as bad as it sounds.
http://www.clubasia.co.jp

Womb

One of the biggest club in the city. Good musical selection. Always crowded & expensive.
http://www.womb.co.jp

Shopping

Tower 109

aka Tower of hysteria: A 10 stories-high tower dedicated to fashion shops for teenage girls.
http://www.shibuya109.jp

Disk Union

Tokyo has more record shops than any other city. And this is one of the best.
http://diskunion.net

Mandrake

Everything Otaku. If you have manga fantasies this is your spot.
http://www.mandarake.co.jp

Hotel

Tokyu Stay Shibuya

Well located. Best value for money. Apt with no service. Big double rooms. Decent single room.
http://www.tokyustay.co.jp/e/hotel/SIB

Ebisu

Ebisu is one stop away from Shibuya on the Yamanote line, West exit. It is one of the most interesting area of Tokyo. Full of restaurants, bars, clubs, and designer shops. The crowd is generally more mature and sophisticated than in Shibuya. It is also a good place to stay as it is very central.

Clubs

Unit

Fabric is probably one of the best clubs in Tokyo right now. It has an excellent program, sound system, and usually an interesting crowd. It is connected to Saloon, a smaller bar/club a few stories down.
http://www.unit-tokyo.com

Milk

The self proclaimed "world greatest enjoy space", Milk is a nice club, playing various kind of music, DJs & live-bands. It has two floors and various rooms. It is always a good place to hang out and talk to people.
http://www.milk-tokyo.com

Hotel

Hotel Excellent

In front of the station. Decent price. No style but comfortable rooms. Many DJs & artists come down there.
http://www.soeikikaku.co.jp

Roppongi

Roppongi is seen either as the best or the worst area of Tokyo, depending on who you ask to (if you ask me, it is the worst). Basically it is an expat enclave in Tokyo. Every other person you see in the street is a foreigner. Nothing wrong with a little diversity, right? Many people go to Roppongi for dining and clubbing. The area has an impressive range of restaurants serving international cuisine. It also has many clubs where US GIs meet Japanese teens. It is one of the very few place in Tokyo where you can see street fights late at night, usually between two drunk foreigners. A few places are worth visiting in Roppongi nonetheless.

View point

Mori Tower

This enormous tower is symbol of the power of Mr Mori, a real estate mogul largely responsible for the poor urbanism of Roppongi. The tower has breath-taking panoramic view of the endless megapolis from the top floor. The best thing about looking at the view from the Mori Tower is that we don't see it from there.
http://www.roppongihills.com/en

Museum

Mori Art Center

: For some things megalomania is good. One of Mr Mori's dream was to have a Museum at his name. The director David Elliott is doing a good job hosting interesting exhibitions. Always worth going.
http://www.mori.art.museum/eng

Club

Superdelux

: This club was established by Tokyo-based architects Klein Dytham. It has interesting events, parties, and shows throughout the months. The last Wednesday of every month is the famous Pecha Kucha night. The crowd is usually very cosmopolitan, mixing Japanese & international designers, architects and artists.
http://www.super-deluxe.com

Shinjuku

Shinjuku is the biggest transportation hub of Tokyo. Everyday about 2 million people flow through the station. The station itself is worth going to, not for its architecture but because it is a true urban phenomenon. The foreign visitor will irremediably get lost there and disturb the flow, standing on the commuters' way trying to read the signs. Once outside it become almost impossible to find the station again despite its gigantic size, as it gets lost in the urban jungle of buildings with flashing neo-lights everywhere around it. Remember how to ask "Eki-wa doko desuka".

From the station you can choose to go in any of the cardinal directions. One of the most interesting thing to see in Shinjuku is "Piss Alley". Down to the right from the West exit. It is a series few very narrow streets full of yakitori shops, serving chicken kebabs and many other things. Great place for food and beers with friends. On the East you will find Kabukicho, the red-light district, home of the famous Shinjuku boys with their tight black suits and fluo blond hairs. If you are planning on visiting any of the sex clubs, expect to get ripped off. More interesting is Golden Gae, a collection of extremely small bars. Inside they feel like someone's salon. Many have interesting themes. One of the bars for instance, is dedicated to "La Jetée", the 1962 Chris Marker movie, and is featured in Wim Wenders' excellent 1985 documentary "Tokyo-ga". Also worth visiting is the famous gay neighborhood in Shinjuku ni-chome, South-East of the station, which has nice side-walk bars and many spooky clubs.

Meeting point

Alta Plaza

A building with a big screen right in front of the East exit. On the way to Kabukicho.

View point & Landmark

Tokyo Metropolitan Government building

(Tocho): designed by Kenzo Tange and completed in 1991 it is the highest building in Tokyo. Beautiful building with free access to the 360 panoramic view floor. Shinjuku station West exit.

Park Hyatt

Yes, this is the hotel where "Lost in Translation" was shot. Remember how Bill Muray was wasting his time at the bar seeping whiskey instead of exploring the city? The only thing for his defense is that the bar is actually nice and has a great night view of Tokyo.
http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com

Museum

NTT InterCommunication Center(ICC)

ICC holds a variety of exhibitions concerning media art works which employ the newest electronic technologies such as virtual reality and interactive technology. Tokyo Opera City Tower 4F, 3-20-2 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
http://www.ntticc.or.jp/index_e.html

Martial Arts

Hombu Dojo

The biggest concentration of aikido masters anywhere in the world. You can watch a class for free, but make sure you display the best etiquette by sitting on your knees (seiza) throughout the class.
http://www.aikikai.or.jp/eng

Indian Food

Raj Mahal restaurant

All you can eat buffet at lunch time. Pricey menu in the evening.
http://www.rajmahal.gr.jp/

Bookstore

Kinokuniya Shinjuku South Store

one floor of the department store, Takashimaya, is dedicated to English language books. Takashimaya Times Square 12F, Shinjuku South Exit.
http://www.kinokuniya.co.jp/english/index.html

Capsule Hotel

Only for men. http://www.yesicanusechopsticks.com/capsule/

Shimokitazawa

5 minutes from Shibuya on the Inokashira line. The neighborhood of Shimokitazawa represents Japanese counter-culture more than any other area in Tokyo. Indeed, this is one of the first places that young architects, designers, artists, djs, or activists visiting Tokyo are taken to by their Japanese counterparts. The narrow and crowded streets of Shimokitazawa have a perfume of freedom and anti-conformism. In Shimokitazawa styled-up youth have not only alternative looks, but also alternative lifestyles. Indeed Shimokitazawa is one of the rare places in Tokyo where counter-culture meets politics.

Shimokitazawa was preserved from destruction and redevelopment throughout the war and up to our days. As a result the town developed incrementally along its narrow streets retaining a village feel that contributes to its popularity. Characterized by low rise buildings, pedestrian space, bustling ground-level market activity, and tight community networks, Shimokitazawa represents an alternative urban model: the informal, unplanned city that consolidated through time.

Meeting point

McDonald's

(they have to serve for something): Shimokitazawa South exit.

Bars

Black Market

Just below the station, North exit. Welcome to an oasis of informality and causality in Tokyo. Many small bars and ramen shops.

Mother

Amazing bar also serving food. The interior design of the bar must have been conceived on LSD. The staff is extremely friendly and the music always good.
5-36-14 Daizawa, Shimokizawa South Exit all the way down.

Lady Jane

The best small bar Jazz in the world. Super classy service and cutting edge Jazz music.
Tel:03-3412-3947

Shopping

Just get lost in the small streets of Shimokitazawa and discover hundreds of specialty stores. Make sure you go both North & South of the station.

Activism

Save the Shimokitazawa

Cool activist group saving the neighborhood from a redevelopment plan of the Government. The best people to get in touch with in Shimokitazawa. For info contact Kaz through this website: http://www.stsk.net/

Omotesando-Aoyama-Harajuku

Omotesando has many buildings designed by starchitects such as Tadao Ando, Toyo Ito, SANAA, Jun Aoki, Kisho Kurokawa, Kengo Kuma. Aoyama, as well as upmarket Japanese labels, such as Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Undercover. Harajuku is the biggest concentration of street clothing & designers stores in the world. Definitively worth a visit. It is also close to Yoyogi park, famous for being the meeting place of Tokyo style-freaks on Sundays. The park is also a great place to see some green in the middle of the city.

Landmark

National Yoyogi Stadium

Shopping

Omotesando Hills

Complex of Shopping, restaurant and residence designed by Tadao Ando.

http://www.omotesandohills.com/eng/index.html

Prada Aoyama

If you cannot buy anything at least you can visit the Herzog & de Meuron’s building and reflect on the concept of architecture as branding. 5-2-6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo

hhstyle.com

Concept interior chain designed by Kazuyo Sejima. 6-14-2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
http://www.hhstyle.com

hhstyle.com/casa

Origami-style structure designed by Tadao Ando. Armani and Boffi’s furtinure, homewares and kitchen brand. 6-14-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

FAT Tokyo

Original oversized Tokyo hip hop clothing. Small shop with friendly staff. Next to it is a very nice little cafe with amazing chocolate cakes. 3-20-1-102 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
http://www.fatyo.com

A Bathing Ape

Over-piced, over-hyped teenager clothes sold by over-pretentious staff. A must. 4-28-22 B1F Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Akihabara

Akihabara is also known as Electronic Town. This is the Mecca for everything electronic, from the latest video games to second hand hardware passing by every single component you need to build your own electronic devices. It is also the natural home of otaku with it dozens of manga and amine stores indulging in the most serve type of sexual fantasies. Some of the best manga stores sell copies directly brought by their authors, so you can find rare items with erotic stories way beyond imagination. In Akihabara you will also find the infamous maid cafes, where you will be served drinks and massaged by young girls dresses in maid uniforms. Akihabara is nerds' paradise.

Asakusa

Asakusa is famous for its Senso-ji temple (also known as Asakusa Kannon-do) which was built ages before Edo became Tokyo, in the 7th century. Around the temple spreads a vast street market selling all kinds of Japanese products (an ideal place to buy presents and souvenirs). Asakusa is also a good place to eat traditional Japanese food and sweets. This area has a unique old Tokyo feel which makes it a favorite destination for visitors. Asakusa is a relatively cheap place to stay. It is also one of the very few area which has ryokan type accommodation (traditional Japanese hotel).

Public Bath

Asakusa Kannon Onsen

Classic bathhouse that boasts spring-fed baths from an underground hotspring. The baths are kept at a steady 40-degrees Celsius. Shiatsu, or pressure point, massages are also available. A favorite hang out for Yakuza. 2-7-26 Asakusa Tokyo, 13 111-0032. +81 (0)3 3844 4141 Open Hours 6.30am-6pm Fri-Wed; closed Fri if Thu is a holiday
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-2765011-asakusa_kannon_onsen_tokyo-i

Ryokan

Roykan Asakusa Shigetsu

Nice traditional Japanese hotel located very close to Senso-ji temple. By Subway: Ginza Line to Asakusa. For map and details
http://shigetsu.com

Ueno

Ueno is most famous for its park, Ueno-koen, which is definitively worth visiting. In the park you will find a few museum and a zoo. Also not to be missed is the Ameya-yokocho street market, opposite the the southern exit to Ueno JR station. It used to be one of Tokyo's largest postwar black market and is still very lively. Good place to purchase anything cheap from fish to sex toys.

Park

Uneo-koen

Nice place to go for a walk. Many museums can be found in the park. Get there from Ueno JR station or Keisei station.

Museums

National Museum of Western Art

Designed by Le Corbusier in the 1950s. Displays art work by French impressionists, Rodin, Ronoir, Rubens, and temporary exibitions. 9:30am-5pm, Tue-Sun.
http://www.nmwa.go.jp

Tokyo National Museum

The National Museum not only is the largest and oldest museum in Japan, it also boasts the largest collection of Japanese art in the world. This is where you go to see antiques from Japan's past -- old kimono, samurai armor, priceless swords, etc
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/tokyo/A23453.html

Yanaka-Nezu-Sendagi-Hongo (YA-NE-SEN)

Situated around the University of Tokyo, Ya-ne-sen was spared by WW2 bombings and has retained a great old-Tokyo charm. It is a good area for a walk. It has many temples, hills and narrow alleyways. Between JR Nippori Station in the east and the Chiyoda Line Sendagi and Nezu Stations in the west. See http://www.tcvb.or.jp/en/hot/mustsee/must_10/mustsee_10.html http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/regional/tokyo/yanaka.html .

Traditional architecture

Asakura Chosokan

former house and sculpture studio of the artist Fumio Asakura. Nice traditional architecture, little pound inside the compound. 7-18-10 Yanaka, Taito-ku. Tel. 3821-4549.

Cemetery

Yanaka Cemetery

One of Tokyo's oldest cemetery with many Buddhist temples. North of Ueno Koen and South of Nippori station